Frasers Hill International Bird Race

FHIBR09 20-21 June 2009

Only twenty minutes to drive up the winding Gap road, hand-carved out of jungled mountain terrain by prison labourers using pick-axes and changkuls in the 1920s. As Fraser’s Hill’s ivy-covered clock tower came into view, Singapore’s inter-club participants burst into spontaneous applause. Coach Driver Mydin’s steady hands have brought us past dramatic cliff drops, climbing ever upwards at a steady pace. Only once did he slow at a hairpin bend before continuing a relentless climb to the genteel Shahzan Inn, our rooms overlooking serene golf greens hacked out of a natural gully.

At 1,260 meters above sea level with year round temperatures between 17°C~25°C / 63°F~77°F, this haven of tranquility tucked away in the foothills of Malaysia’s Titiwangsa mountain range is home to 250 species of montane birds. Excuse enough for our 3 day escape from the heat and humidity of Singapore’s summer.

Its good to be back in cool familiar surroundings. Team leaders gather their flock of novice bird watchers with binoculars at the ready and they’re off at a brisk pace, anxious for a quick preview of the birds before dusk and darkness overtake us.

Not just the darkness, but a steady drizzle put paid to our planned forest night-walk with Fraser’s Hill personality ‘Birdman Durai (SMS +6013-9831633.) Still, his trove of local stories had the ladies hanging onto his words, especially when it came to his blow by blow account of exciting times in June 2005. 4 Singapore school boys Chew Ser Yee, 16, Ser Han, 14 and Ser Meng, 10, and their Singaporean cousin Jeremy Tio, 9. went missing while walking the short 1.3 km Bishop’s Trail. A 160-strong search and rescue team, including police, resident volunteers, tracker dogs, helicopters and the famed Senoi Praaq - Orang Asli trackers, still could not find them after three anxious days. The Sultan of Pahang flew in by helicopter to meet worried parents and receive a report of the rescue operation, then used his Royal prerogative to hire the best known Orang Asli tracker. Speculation was rife that forest spirits known as bunians (jins) had “hidden” the boys from human sight. The whole community rose to the occasion. The sacrifice of a white cockerel, and how the boys were found in a canyon some 20km away - a little worn and dehydrated - make for compelling after dinner conversations. Better still when accompanied by coffee or some stronger brew to while away misty evenings in Malaysia’s own ‘Little England.’ No need to ‘drink n drive’. Our home’s just a short stroll from the ‘kopitiam – pub’.

On Saturday, you rise at dawn to catch the first rays of sunlight peeking over distant hills. You’re guaranteed to have your fair share of sighting pretty birds like Fraser’s Hill mascot the colourful silver eared Mesia feeding on the ground or flitting near lower level bushes. Others are higher up, sighted with binoculars flying from tree to tree. Here you’ll find endemic birds like the Malaysian Whistling Thrush or the Mountain Peacock-Pheasant, found only in Malaysia and nowhere else on earth. Two out of three endemic birds of Peninsula Malaysia are found here. So people keep coming to see these birds. They’re rare, they’re beautiful – read colourful. Easily spotted and relatively unafraid of humans – read birdwatchers.

So take a leisurely walk if you can up into the High Pines Bunglow. Majestic conifers with massive girths that two or three of us with arms outstretched cannot encircle. Massive trunks towering up into pale blue skies. Look across to distant hills tinged in blue to see clouds scudding by below while the breeze adds to the chill factor. And in the afternoon as the sun heats up the body you may drive or walk downhill to chance a dip in the cool waters of Jeriau Waterfalls. The Jeriau Hotel is a popular stop for Birdwatchers. Bright garden lights are switched on all night. Insects by the thousands are attracted to the lights and they’ll die there. In the morning, birds descend for a feast knowing a bountiful breakfast is served. Every morning.

Breakfast for us is local hotel fare of bread and ‘bacon’ strips of turkey, beans and french toast downed with hot coffee. Our Foodie friends preferred bird watching first, walking 2 km away for an authentic local ‘teh tarik + roti canai’ breakfast at Medan Selera. Another popular eatery is the Hillview Restoran for Chinese dishes, and beer. In fact  many of us are simply grateful for shopkeepers, foodstalls and restaurant owners who enjoy living here. This means more variety at mealtimes.

Fraser’s Hill International Bird Race 2009 is flagged off at 1 pm from the Sports Centre fronting the brand new Puncak Inn. As though by telepathic signal, Inter Club Travel Media members head in the direction of Ye Olde Smokehouse (tel.  Mr. Hafiz +609-3622226) at a steady pace to savour the whimsically prepared English cottage style set lunch at a leisurely pace.   

Then they’re off to explore Fraser’s Hill on foot. So many roads lead to scenic lookout points. Trails to walk.  And everywhere you look, there’s so much birdlife to distract and admire.

How goes the race?

Let’s hear it from this year’s Winning Team:

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 Sutari Supari’s email for FHIBR09:

Hi all,

Just to say, "THANK YOU!" for your support, companionship & for sharing the joy & the great company during the FHIBR recently.

We were lucky to be the champion again this year! We'd capped the race again, beating the Thais just by one bird! That was really too close for comfort...! I'm wondering which bird that was cancelled from our list...?

We saw many good birds during and before the race namely: Bat Hawk (Gap gate at 7.30 pm), The Black Laughing-thrush (Gap Rd), the Bamboo Woodpecker (male) and also seen with the Thais (Gap Rd).The Speckled Piculet (High Pines during a mini bird wave), Sultan Tit, Green Magpie, Rufous-bellied Eagle etc etc.

Ahh...and of course the durians that we had was a treat to our souls, hungry tummies, tired bodies and the cold weather. It was great to meet the Malaysians (as usual with their friendly smiles and great hospitality) MNS members and old friends. About forty teams took part in the race (as announced), much more than last year (with 5 teams from Thailand, 4 teams from Spore, one team from Taiwan and the rest are the local teams taking part in the race this year).

Lastly, thanks again for the company and the great time at Fraser's Hill.

Regards. Cheers!

Sutari Supari

Sutari (centre) recieves 2009 Champion’s Trophy for team Cendol n Ice Cream from  Pahang State Tourism Minister Dato’ Shaufik (L) and  Tourism Pahang GM Hanafi.

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Postscript:

Kimosabe  26 June 2009  Termite Migration

There are all sorts of strange happenings in Nature. Observing such events & speculating on their going-ons intrigue me no end. I witnessed the migration of these termites at the staircase leading to Juriau Waterfall, Bukit Fraser on June 20, 2009 and wondered on the purpose of the long march. The questions going round in my head were why, why & why?

 Were they moving from old haunts because (1) the nest was over-populated; (2) the nest was flooded & (3) they were moving elsewhere to establish a new colony?

 At first, my poor eyesight misled me into assuming that some of the workers were carrying their eggs/embryos with them. It became eminently clear to me only after I have processed the images digitally.

 Their actions became even stranger to me when I looked at the picture. Why are the workers carrying pellets of earth with them? There should be plenty of earth where they are going.  Questions, questions & more questions as to why they were moving little clods of earth instead of eggs/embryos to their new establishment.

Can anyone enlighten me? Watching Nature is truly a fascinating endeavour... (Kimosabe 090626) _________________________________________________________________________________

Planning to visit Fraser’s Hill Intl Bird Race 18-20 June 2010?