Travel Malaysia Commission

The Sea Bajau aka Ubian or Sama Dilaut of Sabah have for generations, been nomads of the Sulu Seas. A major maritime community migrating between Southern Philippines, North Sulawesi Indonesia and Sabah in East Malaysia for hundreeds of years, each group has unique language, culture and traditions. Their ancestors live on Lepa - handcrafted wooden houseboats averaging 2m x 6m;.though some stretch up to 30 meters. They follow the tides and seasons, migrating from island to island as subsistence fishermen, coming ashore only for firewood, fresh water or to bury their dead.

Today's Sea Bajau have mainly settled on land in above the ground or above the water homes on stilts, with thatched roofs. Some have moved further inland to plant fruit and vegetable gardens while others are semi-nomadic, and as the spirit moves them, move their Lepa to the next island or coastal location. They can live off the sea and unlike us, their lives are not yet so completely intertwined with a money economy. They harrvest clams, mussels, sea cucumbers and sea weed which are sun dried to barter with mainlanders for rice, clothing and other necessities. The children can swim and dive like fishes and hold their breath for 3-5 minutes enabling them to spear fish 5-10 metes underwater. Children follow the boat and so most never ever go to school. Today, the inland, coastal and island seafarer Bajaus make up 13.4% of Sabah's population and are counted as Orang Asli - Original People with Bumiputra rights and privileges.

Sunday 19th April: Semporna's Dragon Inn is a cluster of 1970s hardwood structures darkened with age sitting atop beams piled deep into a shallow seabed. Looks almost pretty at high tide. Wooden boardwalks lead to rooms, VIP above-water chalets, restaurants and a community hall with more walkways to viewing galleries fronting tree clad islands to the south and east. Its the place to be this weekend because it overlooks the bay of Anjung Lepa - Balcony of Boats where a weekend carnival of seasports and cultural attractions highlight the heritage and charms of the Sea Bajaus.

We join holiday crowds coming to view and cheer the flotilla of gaily decorated Lepa - the same indigenous wooden boats that brought the Sea Bajau increasingly to settle Sabah's shores since the mid -Seventies drawn by Malaysia's better economy and security. From surrounding towns and islands, they converge in their thousands to celebrate the biggest day on their cultural calendar. And then my heart skipped a beat and we pause in mid-step.

Lying below us in the water, plain undecorated worn and weathered is a real lived in Lepa. The wooden boat sits low in the water with a discoloured orange tarpaulin roof cover shielding the sleeping area from sun and rain. While a child secures the front, the mother holds onto a pillar at the stern to keep the boat in place. Her husband has clambered up the wooden walkaway to run some errands so the family must wait. Attempts to communicate in Malay meet with mute smiles and a modest shake of the the head. Her face is caked with a fine layer of pale yellow powder as beauty protection against the sun. They speak their own dialect, and are fluent in the ways of the sea. That child in the front was later seen sitting at the foredeck with one leg wrapped expertly around an oar to paddle and guide the boat into a new position. Weary eyes scan the crowds then turn away to stare listlessly out to sea. We see fishes in the basin, plastic tanks for fresh water beside a dish wash area. This is their mobile home on the water. They move on soon after the father returns. They're not here to watch the parade. Where do they go and how do they live? What of the children's future?

A roar goes up from the crowds. Parade of the Lepa is announced. Sambulayang - decorative satin sails in shades of gold and reds and blues hang from a 5 - 7 meter tall T-framed mast topped with a ceremonial umbrella to symbolise sheltering of inhabitants from sun and rain. Flags, banners and buntings are strung from the bowsprit and cross members from front to stern fluttering gaily in the breeze. Music blares and drums beat repeat a percussive rythm. Island maidens dressed in embroidered finery sway to the strains of violins playing as they dance the Igal-Igal.

A record flotilla of 135 decorated boats begin a majestic sail past before the VIP panel of judges and then moor neatly along foreshores of the Anjung Lepa. Of 135 boats, only 15 qualify as genuine Lepa narrowed down to 7 vessels for the finals. These have beautiful wood carvings at the bowsprit jutting forward above and gliding below the waterling like an underwater spear. Others modified with outboard motors may not qualify and do not mind. They're gathered here with the community to celebrate this important day for Sabah's Sea Bajau.

The next few hours sees seasports challenges. Canoe races where spectator involvement is contagious, shouting themselves hoarse in support of their own village teams. Its a 50 meter dash to the finish line and victory is sweet for an older lady raising her oars in victiory after soundly beating younger rivals. Tug-of-war sees 2 boats connected by a strong rope with respective teams of 2, 5 and then 8 doing battle in ever bigger boats. They paddle vigourously in place for long seconds even minutes. Till one side relents and is then dragged unceremoniasly across centre line buoys with boistrous spectators yelling hoots of insults or encouragement.

But the carnival was already going full blast on Saturday. In the the afternoon, you're drawn to the traditional Lepa by melodious sounding of kulintangan. 9 smaller kettle gongs and 3 much bigger hanging gongs accompanied by double-headed drums. Musicians play under roofed awnings while on the foredeck they dance the Igal-Igal.

The foreshores converted into fairgrounds is now chock-a-block with villagers and townsfolk dressed their best. Particularly noticeable are teenagers preening in fashionably colourful outfits. They all throng exhibitors tents promoting a multitude of life style options. From Malaysian Navy careers to Save the Planet causes. Heritage handicrafts are on show next to boatbuilders demostrating ukkil wood carving skills. Artists from Peninsular Malaysia display their finest oil and water-colour paintings while the Anti-Drug agency preaches against the horrors of dadah addiction. The State Library promotion of Free membership for school children is a roaring success with over 1000 new members registered each day. Brochures are flying off tables at the Sabah Tourism booth crowded with visitors, while another group of older people patiently queue up for foot reflexology by visually impaired society experts tweaking & kneading excruciaitng aches from tired bones. In fact, the mix of public and private sector participants generate a carnival atmosphere with music playing and crowds swamping the stalls for food and games.

This Saturday night, its a faryland of lights. Locals and visitors from Tawau, Lahad Datu and Sandakan fill the spectator stands to overflowing. Performers in the hundreds line the grounds around a huge stage while music and announcements blare forth. Dancers in the hundreds form moving lines and patterns across the entire field to perform a ceremonial welcome. Dressed in traditional finery reflecting the splendour and spectrum of Sabah's rich tribal cultures, locals easily identitify the tribal origins of each dance group from the head gear as well as the patterns and colours of garments. Of course on this occassion, costumes of the different Sea Bajau tribes prevailed.

The most important personalities in Sabah are all in attendance as Head of State Tun Hj Ahmadshah Abdullah launched the festivities flanked by Chief Minister Dato' Seri Musa Hj Aman and an entourage of Federal and State Ministers. Popular singers, commedians and dance troupes continue to entertain throughout the night interrupted now and again by boistrous screams and applause for outstanding performers. The Lepa Regatta Beauty Queen contest was well recieved. The Grand Finale was a glorious fireworks display at midnight that rocked the town and could be seen from miles away.

Over late night coffee and beer discussions, we are upbeat about Unity Culture Arts & Heritage Minister Datuk Mohd Shafie Apdal's announcement. The Semporna Arts and Culture Centre would be set up for research and reference "to safeguard our heritage." "Lepa or Boat in the Bajau Language is a heritage that is slowly disappearing. It has to be nurtured as a treasure. In appreciating the importance of the Lepa, the Lepa Regatta is a premier event for Malaysia's Water Festival." Really good news for Semporna!

Gateway Semporna: Most Visitors know Semporna is gateway to Sipadan - voted the world's Top 5 Dive Destinations. Today, we know more! Semporna is gateway to an ancient seafaring community on islands to be explored and discovered by Students, Boatbuilders; Wood carvers; Photographers, Sociologists, Anthropologists, Culture Vultures. And those seeking the secrets to lower pressure lifestyles.

Do we really know? We spoke with Nasatia's Grandfather 60 year old Hj Aladin KK - Kampong Ketua or Village Chief of Pulau Omadal Utara. He built his boat named 'Lepa Asli' - 'Boat Original' with his own hands over a period of 5 months. Spent over RM5,000 on this hobby to put his village in the spotlight. And if you must visit before we do, email us for his son's contact number. Take many photos for your Foto Story. We'll find space for Semporna Story2.

Fly - Drive & Splash! Semporna's islands are within reach. Fly into Tawau for its famed seafood restraunts, Drive 1.5 hours to Semporna next door then splash across to unspoilt islands. Discover islander lifestyles others just love to talk about.